Restaurant Review: Modena 88

Food from the Italian region most famous for its luxury cars

A restaurant devoted to the Italian region responsible for the world's most prestigious cars was too much temptation - we had to see if the venue was as stylish as the vehicles it represents.

Restaurant: Modena 88
Cuisine: Modern Italian
Entrees: $10.50 - $18
Mains: $13 - $27
Location: 88 Crown Street
Woolloomooloo, NSW
To make a booking: (02) 9326 0888

Named after the province in Italy renowned for its balsamic vinegar, lambrusco wine and parmigiano reggiano (as well as the exalted Ferrari, Maserati and Bugatti cars), Modena 88 breathes with its own stylish, urban vibe. You'll find no chequered tablecloths, wooden tables or paintings of the Colosseum which generally grace the d‚cor of traditional Italian restaurants, but then again - like its namesake - this restaurant steps outside convention.

When we strolled to Modena 88 on a pleasant Wednesday evening, and took in the glimpses of the city skyline that Crown Street in Woolloomooloo offers, we were not expecting to find such a chic, modern restaurant. Yet there it was in all its sophisticated open-space glory - sleek black tables, lounge music and a mood-lit bar (complete with its own expert mixologist).

We were seated at an al fresco table and offered a couple of cocktails to help us unwind - a dry bison grass and basil martini and a macadamia and pomegranate sour and took note of the service which complemented the aesthetics with a blend of well mannered etiquette and artless, casual ease.

The menu, at first glance, seemed typical of an Italian restaurant however we soon discovered that with choices such as grilled yellow fin tuna, Sicilian caponata and lemon and orecchiette, spicy sausage, cavolo nero and tomato, it too had its own unique flavour.

After some deliberation we ordered three starters - melon prosciutto and breadsticks from the specials board, a chorizo, chick pea and feta salad, and battered zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and garlic. We were not disappointed, all of our choices provided distinct flavours which hinted of a Moroccan influence. The lightness of the meals was also pleasantly surprising and after having more than a nibble of each, we were eagerly anticipating the mains.

For these we decided to share a corn fed chicken breast with salsa verde and lentils, and Modena 88's famed pappardelle with braised lamb and mushrooms - both of which offered an unexpected twist to their seeming simplicity. To compliment our choices and the evening's ambience we ordered two more cocktails - a Martel cognac and pear martini from the cocktail menu and the mixologist's own creation of gin, lavender and fresh cucumber.

Once we had finished the meals opted for some desserts. We tried the affogato, but couldn't go past the peanut butter and hazelnut parfait topped with banana and syrup - both of which were delightful.

We left with the very distinct impression that Modena 88 provides just the sort of atmosphere and food to tantalise the tastebuds in a sophisticated, easy environment - engineered with a class that, once would assume, Enzo Ferrari would appreciate.