Restaurant review: Ying's Seafood

Ying...and the Yang

Having been promised the best Chinese seafood outside of Chinatown, Luke Cornish headed to Ying's Seafood on Sydney's North Shore to find out if it could really be true

Restaurant: Ying's SeafoodYing's Seafood image
Cuisine: Chinese Seafood
Entrees: $7-29
Mains: $17-39
Location: Shop 2
270 Pacific Hwy
Crows Nest, NSW
To make a booking: (02) 9966 9182

A strip mall on the Pacific Highway in Crows Nest might not be the most likely place to stumble across a gastronomic wonderland but that is what awaits those who manage to find Ying's Seafood Restaurant.

While your client or business partner is unlikely to be overawed by the rather plain and obvious d‚cor, the food is sure to provide a lasting impression and provide the perfect way to celebrate the closing of a big deal.

A quick glance at the menu is enough to convince that there are options to suit anyone's taste. However, those who are up for a bit of a dinnertime adventure should leave their choice of food up to owner Ying Lee who will find out your budget and cook accordingly.

My meal was kicked off with port wine oysters and shallots and, after devouring the starters, it became clear to me why Ying has been consistent in winning one hat in the Sydney Morning Herald's Good Food Guide for the past three years.

The first of the starters was just enough to whet my appetite and I was soon rewarded with clams cooked in garlic and ginger accompanied by ginger scallops. Ying's is fully licensed but customers can bring their own wine for a $5 corkage fee - I brought a nice pinot noir.

The next course was Ying's signature dish - salt and pepper squid served with salt and pepper prawns. This was the highlight of my meal and, even if the rest of the food had been average, it would be worth making the trip to the restaurant just for the squid.

Ying then brought out a Shanghai dish - crab meat with egg white and dry scallop on top marinated in Cantonese red wine vinegar. This was followed by the main course of fillet in Japanese mustard and soy sauce served with bok choy.

The restaurant can cater for vegetarians swapping vegetables for fish or meat in most of the dishes and the chefs can provide a banquet even for those with the most restrictive diets. The signature dessert dish, especially, can be enjoyed by anyone.

For visual effects, the fresh fruit platter receives top marks. It is served on a plate that is over a small serving of dry ice. This acts to keep the fruit cold and create the satisfying effect of a small layer of fog rolling over your dinner table. It is one of those dishes that, after seeing someone else have one, you just have to get one yourself.

Ying has been cooking in Sydney for eight years and has a dedicated following but a tightening of consumers' belts has obviously taken its toll as evidenced by the several empty tables on a Thursday night. However, if you live north of Sydney, there is absolutely no reason to go all the way to Chinatown when Ying's is on your doorstep.